Christopher Columbus and the Dominican Republic

Did you know that on every voyage that Christopher Columbus made to the New World, he stopped in the Dominican Republic?  On his second voyage to the New World in 1493, Columbus sailed with 17 ships and over 1200 men to try to establish a permanent Spanish colony.  On his first voyage, he had left 39 men in a fortress on the north coast of Haiti (which shares the island of Hispaniola with the Dominican Republic).  When he returned in 1493, he found that the fortress had been burned and all his men dead.  The Taino Indians who were indigenous to the island did not like the white intruders.

Deciding that the area wasn't a good place for a permanent colony (good idea, Chris), they sailed along the coast of Hispaniola and established a colony in La Isabela on the north western coast of the DR.  However, although there was fresh water, a good harbor, and a great place for a fort, the area was hit be two devastating hurricanes, deadly disease, and a harbor that was actually not protected from winter winds and waves.  Many ships were lost in the hurricanes, including the famous Santa Maria and the Nina. 

The welcoming sign - In this part of the Americas,

 the Admiral Don Christopher Columbus established

 in the year 1493 La Isabela, the first city of the New World.

So he wisely (once again), moved to the south shore of the island on the west bank of the Ozama River – the current Santo Domingo.  La Isabela was abandoned by 1498. 

On Columbus' second voyage, he began to require tribute from the Taínos in Hispaniola. According to early writers,  each adult over 14 years of age was expected to deliver a hawks’ bill full of gold every three months, or when this was lacking, twenty five pounds of spun cotton. If this tribute was not observed, the Taínos had their hands cut off and were left to bleed to death. These cruel practices gave way for many revolts and campaigns—some being successful, some not.

We have been so fascinated by this story that we took the opportunity to visit some of these sites.  We arrived late in the afternoon at La Isabela.  We were told that the trip would take us about 30 minutes through the mountains, but it took about an hour and 30 minutes.  When we arrived the place was locked, but a kind guard let us in and took us around.  It was probably even more interesting to visit the cemetery and abandoned church by starlight. We hope to return again in the daytime.

Here is a shot looking west over the harbor as the sun is setting.  I tried to imagine Columbus seeing this same view out of his bedroom window.  

Here Rob is standing by the foundation of Chris' home.

These tombstones have not been there since 1493 or so, but have been placed where graves have been found.  Great for Halloween!  The sailors mainly died from disease that they found in the area.

This is the marker for the grave of a Spanish soldier.  Apparently, you can tell that he is Spanish because they were buried with their arms crossed over their body.  The Indians were simply buried.  

On another excursion, we visited the Colonial Zone and the home of Diego Columbus where Christopher spent some time.  It has been restored with period furniture and is so interesting. It is a magnificent palace overlooking the river on the other side.

This is a sign on the last home of the Christopher Columbus in the New World, leaving in 1504.  It says that he is Discover of the New World, The first Admiral of the Ocean and of the West Indies, Viceroy and Governor.  Columbus died in Spain but requested to be buried in the New World.

Across the Ozama River from the Colonial Zone is the Faro Colon or Christopher Columbus’ lighthouse.  It really is hardly what we consider a lighthouse.  It’s in the shape of a cross and is more like a mausoleum.  Apparently, it is lit on October 12 and sends a cross into the sky, although we missed seeing it In the lighthouse, dedicated in 1992 by Pope John?, there are rooms decorated by each of the other countries in the Americas in honor of the 500^th Anniversary of Columbus’ first voyage.  There is also a large anchor supposedly from the Santa Maria.  

Inside is a large “tomb” with the ashes of Columbus. There is a dispute between the DR and Spain about who had the actual ashes.  Spain claims to have done DNA testing on theirs which confirms ownership, but there is another story from here.  Wherever the ashes may be, Chris, himself, is on the other side of the veil probably sailing along on some cloud :-).

It is amazing to walk in the places when this famous explorer walked.  He talks in his journal about being inspired to take his ocean voyage and felt that God was with him.  In spite of his shortcomings, he was an amazing explorer.